Three Days in D.C.: Day 3
By Fritz Hahn
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Monday, October 27, 2008 12:00 AM
Washington D.C. is known as the Capital of the Free World, and tourists come from across the country and around the globe to see the White House, Capitol and other symbols of freedom. But there's far more to Washington than marble edifices. We have a huge network of free museums, expansive outdoor spaces, some of the best restaurants in America and lively late-night clubs. There's a lot to see and do in our area -- it could take a lifetime to experience everything there is to offer. But if you give us three days, we can help you make the most of them.
Day 3
It's time to get out of Washington and head for Old Town Alexandria, the charming colonial city a few miles down the Potomac. Red-bricked Old Town is older than the nation's capital, tracing its history to 1749, and it's full of colonial buildings, antique shops, galleries and fun restaurants. Wander down cobblestone alleys and browse the artisan stores, stopping in at the recreated Gadsby's Tavern or historic Christ Church, which was attended by George Washington and Robert E. Lee. Kids and adults alike enjoy watching local artists working in their studios at the waterside Torpedo Factory. For a special lunch, we really like Restaurant Eve; no reservations are required if you eat at a table in the bar.
If you don't have a car -- or don't want to bother with parking -- the Potomac Riverboat Company runs a water taxi service from the Georgetown waterfront to Old Town. (Check the company's Web site for discount coupons.) It's not as exciting, but Metro goes there too -- take the Blue or Yellow lines to King Street, and look for the free shuttle buses that run to the historic district. (It's a 15- to 20-minute walk otherwise, and an enjoyable stroll past small boutiques if you don't have children in tow.)
Some history buffs will want to continue their exploration of the founding fathers by making a trip to Mount Vernon, George Washington's nearby estate. It's reachable by boat (the Potomac Riverboat Company again), car or public transportation; Catch the Metro from King Street to Huntington, where you can get Fairfax Connector bus 101 to the estate's front gate.
Others, though, will want to head back to Washington, and we suggest a tour of the recently renovated National Portrait Gallery and American Art Museum in the revived Penn Quarter neighborhood. Both museums are open until 7 p.m. daily, so there's no need to rush back. (Note that this area includes the Verizon Center, home to the Washington Wizards basketball team and the Washington Capitals hockey team, and is likely to be crowded on game nights.) There's plenty of shopping and entertainment nearby, including the ever-popular tapas restaurant Zaytinya, modern Indian at Rasika, Spanish tapas at Jaleo and gourmet brick-oven pizzas at Matchbox. Proof is one of the city's top restaurants and wine bars, and offers a by-the-glass selection that will delight oenophiles. For cocktails, we like the attractive courtyard bar at Poste, inside the Hotel Monaco, and the huge drink list and stylish lounge seating at IndeBleu. Those preferring pubs to pomegranate martinis can check out the quiz nights at live music at Fado Irish Pub, Washington's largest selection of draft beers at R.F.D. Washington, or Rocket Bar, a fun bar that offers pool, darts, shuffleboard, Skee-ball and other amusements.
Sunday, October 18, 2009
Three Days in D.C.: Day 2
Three Days in D.C.: Day 2
Monday, October 27, 2008 12:00 AM
Washington D.C. is known as the Capital of the Free World, and tourists come from across the country and around the globe to see the White House, Capitol and other symbols of freedom. But there's far more to Washington than marble edifices. We have a huge network of free museums, expansive outdoor spaces, some of the best restaurants in America and lively late-night clubs. There's a lot to see and do in our area -- it could take a lifetime to experience everything there is to offer. But if you give us three days, we can help you make the most of them.
Day 2
The second day is when Washington really begins to show its variety. We're going to break our suggestions down for three broad kinds of groups: families, those interested in history and politics, and those who'd rather engage in people-watching and culture. Feel free to pick and choose from our suggestions, though -- there's no reason thirtysomethings can't hit the Zoo.
Families: The National Zoo is the must-do. It's open early, when animals are at their most active, and the kids will have a more memorable visit if they can watch Tai Shan the panda cub romping with his mother instead of sleeping high in tree, as he's prone to do for much of the day. Other kid-pleasers include tiger and cheetah cubs; Amazonia, a walk-through rainforest ; and the children's farm, with its cows, donkeys and goats.
After lunch -- we like Open City, a modern diner in Woodley Park, more than what's on offer at the Zoo -- consider heading back to the Smithsonian, where children can check out exhibits they may have skipped the day before. Another idea is the National Cathedral, located a short bus ride away from Woodley Park. (You can catch the 96 Metrobus outside Open City, along with the private sightseeing buses.) It's the sixth-largest cathedral in the world, and half-hour tours are offered daily. Kids will love looking that the gargoyles and running around in the Bishop's Garden.
For dinner, Cleveland Park's popular 2 Amys delights adult visitors with its pizza -- voted the best in washingtonpost.com's annual reader survey -- but also welcomes neighborhood children.
History Buffs: Washington's history is intertwined with America's. As the home of government, there is no shortage of sites to visit.
The resting place of John F. Kennedy, Thurgood Marshall, two Challenger astronauts and several unknown service members, Arlington National Cemetery is one of the most hallowed sites in America. The grounds were formally part of Arlington House, the home of Confederate general Robert E. Lee. That mansion is open to the public.
Besides the Smithsonian, there are a number of history-related museums in town. The International Spy Museum traces the story of spycraft from Moses through the Cold War. Near the Mall, the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum tells the story of the persecution of Jews, homosexuals and other groups by the Nazis.
(If you have a car, consider a drive out to Manassas Battlefield Park, west of Washington, which was the site of the first major battle of the Civil War in 1861, and an encore the following year.)
Time for dinner. In Georgetown, Martin's Tavern is a 1930s saloon that was frequented by John F. Kennedy, Lyndon Johnson, House Speaker Sam Rayburn and convicted Soviet spy Elizabeth Bentley, and still visited by Madeline Albright and other political figures today. Every president since Harry S Truman has visited Martin's, making it a required stop on the campaign trail. Paintings in the dining room came from the estate of President James Monroe. The kitchen's Delmonico steak remains a crowd-pleaser.
After eating, head down to U Street, known as "Black Broadway" in the 1920s and '30s. (See the Culture Vulture section below for more information.)
Culture Vultures: Start the day off right at Eastern Market, the historic farmer's market full of butchers, florists and vendors selling fruit and vegetables. The venerable Market Lunch makes the best blueberry pancakes around -- order the "buck blue," or buckwheat blueberry pancakes. On weekends, a bustling flea market and produce vendors fill the neighborhood.
Then it's off to Georgetown, Washington's best-known shopping district, where little boutiques line Wisconsin Avenue, alongside big names like Puma, Zara, Lacoste and Intermix. (Walk over to Union Station and grab the cross-town Circulator bus, which will drop you at the corner of Wisconsin and M, which is the heart of the neighborhood.) Spend some time wandering the side streets before making a pit stop. In warm weather, the waterfront bars lining Georgetown's Washington Harbour provide some of the best people-watching in the city, thanks to legions of well-dressed singles on the prowl -- some of whom tie up their boats at the dock before heading to Sequoia or Tony and Joe's for a beer on the patio. If you're looking for bold-faced names, the place to go is Cafe Milano, an expensive restaurant where you may find Bill and Hillary Clinton, Jessica Simpson, Jamie Foxx or Derek Jeter in the dining room. (Regular Placido Domingo is honored with a 15-foot mural of the opera singer.) Martini lovers can head for the Degrees bar in the tony Ritz-Carlton hotel, where celebrity guests -- including Jon Bon Jovi and Michael Jordan -- have been known to pop down for a cocktail.
Just across Rock Creek Park is Dupont Circle, a vibrant neighborhood that is the center of Washington's large gay community; a popular nightlife destination with lounges and bars and clubs catering to all stripes; home to many embassies and the city's diplomatic community; and filled with small galleries and the newly expanded Phillips Collection, America's first modern art museum.
The Phillips is known for its huge French Impressionist collection, which includes Renoir's "Luncheon of the Boating Party." Admission to the permanent collection is free on weekdays. A short walk away, 14th Street has become an exciting corridor of independent galleries, mostly located within a block or two of the intersection with P Street. The Transformer Gallery, Irvine Contemporary, Hemphill Fine Arts and the Adamson Gallery are all worth a visit, and the latter two share a building at 1515 14th St.
To get to Dupont from Georgetown, you can catch the Georgetown Shuttle, a blue bus that runs between Georgetown's M Street and the Dupont Circle Metro Station every 10 minutes.
Dinner is easy to come by, thanks to a long list of restaurants. Pizzeria Paradiso attracts long lines for its well-made pies, topped with an array of fresh ingredients. While the Palm is pricey, the steakhouse is always filled with famous-for-Washington politicians, reporters and talking heads, and the aged New York strip wins plaudits, too. And possibly no restaurant in the neighborhood feels quite as lively as Bistrot du Coin, a buzzing French restaurant with good steak frites, a long wine list and service that some readers describe as "typically French" -- i.e. hit-or-miss -- but it's worth it just for checking out the variety of French and Francophile patrons who stroll into the bar.
The food at the Brickskeller isn't much to shout about, but that's not why folks head to the Dupont Circle institution -- they're there to explore a list of more than 1,000 different bottled beers from Argentina to Vietnam. After a drink, grab a cab for a short trip to U Street, which was known as Black Broadway in the 1920s and '30s when hometown boy Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald and Count Basie played clubs and concert halls on the strip. It's still a jazz hotspot today; touring musicians and local unknowns play at Twins Jazz, U-topia, Duke's City and Cafe Nema on a regular basis, while well-known rock bands perform at the nearby 9:30 Club and Black Cat. Don't forget to stop in for a late-night chili-cheese half-smoke at Ben's Chili Bowl, which has welcomed Martin Luther King Jr., Bill Cosby, Redd Foxx, Miles Davis and Nat "King" Cole since opening in 1958.
Monday, October 27, 2008 12:00 AM
Washington D.C. is known as the Capital of the Free World, and tourists come from across the country and around the globe to see the White House, Capitol and other symbols of freedom. But there's far more to Washington than marble edifices. We have a huge network of free museums, expansive outdoor spaces, some of the best restaurants in America and lively late-night clubs. There's a lot to see and do in our area -- it could take a lifetime to experience everything there is to offer. But if you give us three days, we can help you make the most of them.
Day 2
The second day is when Washington really begins to show its variety. We're going to break our suggestions down for three broad kinds of groups: families, those interested in history and politics, and those who'd rather engage in people-watching and culture. Feel free to pick and choose from our suggestions, though -- there's no reason thirtysomethings can't hit the Zoo.
Families: The National Zoo is the must-do. It's open early, when animals are at their most active, and the kids will have a more memorable visit if they can watch Tai Shan the panda cub romping with his mother instead of sleeping high in tree, as he's prone to do for much of the day. Other kid-pleasers include tiger and cheetah cubs; Amazonia, a walk-through rainforest ; and the children's farm, with its cows, donkeys and goats.
After lunch -- we like Open City, a modern diner in Woodley Park, more than what's on offer at the Zoo -- consider heading back to the Smithsonian, where children can check out exhibits they may have skipped the day before. Another idea is the National Cathedral, located a short bus ride away from Woodley Park. (You can catch the 96 Metrobus outside Open City, along with the private sightseeing buses.) It's the sixth-largest cathedral in the world, and half-hour tours are offered daily. Kids will love looking that the gargoyles and running around in the Bishop's Garden.
For dinner, Cleveland Park's popular 2 Amys delights adult visitors with its pizza -- voted the best in washingtonpost.com's annual reader survey -- but also welcomes neighborhood children.
History Buffs: Washington's history is intertwined with America's. As the home of government, there is no shortage of sites to visit.
The resting place of John F. Kennedy, Thurgood Marshall, two Challenger astronauts and several unknown service members, Arlington National Cemetery is one of the most hallowed sites in America. The grounds were formally part of Arlington House, the home of Confederate general Robert E. Lee. That mansion is open to the public.
Besides the Smithsonian, there are a number of history-related museums in town. The International Spy Museum traces the story of spycraft from Moses through the Cold War. Near the Mall, the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum tells the story of the persecution of Jews, homosexuals and other groups by the Nazis.
(If you have a car, consider a drive out to Manassas Battlefield Park, west of Washington, which was the site of the first major battle of the Civil War in 1861, and an encore the following year.)
Time for dinner. In Georgetown, Martin's Tavern is a 1930s saloon that was frequented by John F. Kennedy, Lyndon Johnson, House Speaker Sam Rayburn and convicted Soviet spy Elizabeth Bentley, and still visited by Madeline Albright and other political figures today. Every president since Harry S Truman has visited Martin's, making it a required stop on the campaign trail. Paintings in the dining room came from the estate of President James Monroe. The kitchen's Delmonico steak remains a crowd-pleaser.
After eating, head down to U Street, known as "Black Broadway" in the 1920s and '30s. (See the Culture Vulture section below for more information.)
Culture Vultures: Start the day off right at Eastern Market, the historic farmer's market full of butchers, florists and vendors selling fruit and vegetables. The venerable Market Lunch makes the best blueberry pancakes around -- order the "buck blue," or buckwheat blueberry pancakes. On weekends, a bustling flea market and produce vendors fill the neighborhood.
Then it's off to Georgetown, Washington's best-known shopping district, where little boutiques line Wisconsin Avenue, alongside big names like Puma, Zara, Lacoste and Intermix. (Walk over to Union Station and grab the cross-town Circulator bus, which will drop you at the corner of Wisconsin and M, which is the heart of the neighborhood.) Spend some time wandering the side streets before making a pit stop. In warm weather, the waterfront bars lining Georgetown's Washington Harbour provide some of the best people-watching in the city, thanks to legions of well-dressed singles on the prowl -- some of whom tie up their boats at the dock before heading to Sequoia or Tony and Joe's for a beer on the patio. If you're looking for bold-faced names, the place to go is Cafe Milano, an expensive restaurant where you may find Bill and Hillary Clinton, Jessica Simpson, Jamie Foxx or Derek Jeter in the dining room. (Regular Placido Domingo is honored with a 15-foot mural of the opera singer.) Martini lovers can head for the Degrees bar in the tony Ritz-Carlton hotel, where celebrity guests -- including Jon Bon Jovi and Michael Jordan -- have been known to pop down for a cocktail.
Just across Rock Creek Park is Dupont Circle, a vibrant neighborhood that is the center of Washington's large gay community; a popular nightlife destination with lounges and bars and clubs catering to all stripes; home to many embassies and the city's diplomatic community; and filled with small galleries and the newly expanded Phillips Collection, America's first modern art museum.
The Phillips is known for its huge French Impressionist collection, which includes Renoir's "Luncheon of the Boating Party." Admission to the permanent collection is free on weekdays. A short walk away, 14th Street has become an exciting corridor of independent galleries, mostly located within a block or two of the intersection with P Street. The Transformer Gallery, Irvine Contemporary, Hemphill Fine Arts and the Adamson Gallery are all worth a visit, and the latter two share a building at 1515 14th St.
To get to Dupont from Georgetown, you can catch the Georgetown Shuttle, a blue bus that runs between Georgetown's M Street and the Dupont Circle Metro Station every 10 minutes.
Dinner is easy to come by, thanks to a long list of restaurants. Pizzeria Paradiso attracts long lines for its well-made pies, topped with an array of fresh ingredients. While the Palm is pricey, the steakhouse is always filled with famous-for-Washington politicians, reporters and talking heads, and the aged New York strip wins plaudits, too. And possibly no restaurant in the neighborhood feels quite as lively as Bistrot du Coin, a buzzing French restaurant with good steak frites, a long wine list and service that some readers describe as "typically French" -- i.e. hit-or-miss -- but it's worth it just for checking out the variety of French and Francophile patrons who stroll into the bar.
The food at the Brickskeller isn't much to shout about, but that's not why folks head to the Dupont Circle institution -- they're there to explore a list of more than 1,000 different bottled beers from Argentina to Vietnam. After a drink, grab a cab for a short trip to U Street, which was known as Black Broadway in the 1920s and '30s when hometown boy Duke Ellington, Ella Fitzgerald and Count Basie played clubs and concert halls on the strip. It's still a jazz hotspot today; touring musicians and local unknowns play at Twins Jazz, U-topia, Duke's City and Cafe Nema on a regular basis, while well-known rock bands perform at the nearby 9:30 Club and Black Cat. Don't forget to stop in for a late-night chili-cheese half-smoke at Ben's Chili Bowl, which has welcomed Martin Luther King Jr., Bill Cosby, Redd Foxx, Miles Davis and Nat "King" Cole since opening in 1958.
Three Days in D.C.: Day 1
Three Days in D.C.: Day 1
By Fritz Hahn
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Monday, October 27, 2008 12:00 AM
Washington D.C. is known as the Capital of the Free World, and tourists come from across the country and around the globe to see the White House, Capitol and other symbols of freedom. But there's far more to Washington than marble edifices. We have a huge network of free museums, expansive outdoor spaces, some of the best restaurants in America and lively late-night clubs. There's a lot to see and do in our area -- it could take a lifetime to experience everything there is to offer. But if you give us three days, we can help you make the most of them.
Day 1
No visit to Washington would be complete with a trip to the National Mall, the broad, (somewhat) grassy expanse of lawn that runs from the U.S. Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial.
Start at the Capitol, where 45-minute tours are available from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. The earlier you go, the shorter the wait will be. After your tour, it's time for the truly difficult decision: Choosing which one of the Smithsonian Institution museums you want to visit. There are 15 altogether, with objects ranging from the Hope Diamond (inside theNatural History Museum) to the Wright Brothers' Flyer (Air and Space Museum) to paintings by Andy Warhol (Hirshhorn Museum). Trying to take in all the highlights is too much for one vacation, so it's better to choose one or two areas of interest and focus on those museums. Also near the Mall -- but not part of the Smithsonian -- are the National Gallery of Art, the largest art museum in Washington and home to many major exhibits, and the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum.
No matter what you choose to do, we're going to suggest having lunch at the Mitsitam Cafe inside the National Museum of the American Indian. The selection of Native American foods ranges from buffalo burgers to chicken tamales and is easily the best thing on the Mall.
After lunch, take in fantastic views of the city from the top of the Washington Monument. You don't actually have to climb the 897 steps -- an elevator gets you there in just over a minute -- but you'll save plenty of time if you reserve same-day tickets ahead of time through the National Park Service. (See our story on planning ahead for more tips on getting tickets in advance.) You'll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Washington, though you'll have to wait your turn to look out of the tiny windows.
Now that you've seen the city, it's time to check out another of the museums, or perhaps wander through one of the two outdoor sculpture gardens at the Hirshhorn or National Gallery. (The latter is a destination for all seasons, with live jazz in warmer months and ice skating in the winter.)
Time for dinner. If you have a favorite cuisine, check out Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema's annual dining guide and recent reviews. For something more traditional, we'll steer you towards the Old Ebbitt Grill, a sprawling, clubby restaurant near the White House and Treasury building that boasts friendly service and an excellent raw bar -- and is a favorite with Secret Service agents and other government employees.
Daytime isn't necessarily the best time to see the monuments at the western end of the Mall. The World War II Memorial, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Korean War Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and Lincoln Memorial are all open 24 hours a day, and are all much more dramatic in the dark. The FDR Memorial's rushing water and outdoor "rooms" especially lend itself to after-hours exploration. One note about safety: The Mall and the Tidal Basin aren't well lit at night, but all the memorials have nearby parking and park rangers on duty until 11:30 p.m.
Those who want to explore Washington's nightlife should head for the bar-heavy Adams Morgan neighborhood, where dozens of late-night spots surround the corner of 18th Street and Columbia Road. West African bars with live music, international lounges, dive bars, high-energy dance clubs, cool rooftop decks -- there's something for everyone.
For a more laidback scene, try one of the traditional grand hotel bars. The Round Robin Bar at the Willard, the Mayflower's Town and Country Lounge and the Hay-Adams's Off the Record are old-school hideaways with fantastic bartenders and strong martinis.
View all comments that have been posted about this article.
© 2008 Washingtonpost.Newsweek Interactive
By Fritz Hahn
washingtonpost.com Staff Writer
Monday, October 27, 2008 12:00 AM
Washington D.C. is known as the Capital of the Free World, and tourists come from across the country and around the globe to see the White House, Capitol and other symbols of freedom. But there's far more to Washington than marble edifices. We have a huge network of free museums, expansive outdoor spaces, some of the best restaurants in America and lively late-night clubs. There's a lot to see and do in our area -- it could take a lifetime to experience everything there is to offer. But if you give us three days, we can help you make the most of them.
Day 1
No visit to Washington would be complete with a trip to the National Mall, the broad, (somewhat) grassy expanse of lawn that runs from the U.S. Capitol to the Lincoln Memorial.
Start at the Capitol, where 45-minute tours are available from 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. The earlier you go, the shorter the wait will be. After your tour, it's time for the truly difficult decision: Choosing which one of the Smithsonian Institution museums you want to visit. There are 15 altogether, with objects ranging from the Hope Diamond (inside theNatural History Museum) to the Wright Brothers' Flyer (Air and Space Museum) to paintings by Andy Warhol (Hirshhorn Museum). Trying to take in all the highlights is too much for one vacation, so it's better to choose one or two areas of interest and focus on those museums. Also near the Mall -- but not part of the Smithsonian -- are the National Gallery of Art, the largest art museum in Washington and home to many major exhibits, and the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum.
No matter what you choose to do, we're going to suggest having lunch at the Mitsitam Cafe inside the National Museum of the American Indian. The selection of Native American foods ranges from buffalo burgers to chicken tamales and is easily the best thing on the Mall.
After lunch, take in fantastic views of the city from the top of the Washington Monument. You don't actually have to climb the 897 steps -- an elevator gets you there in just over a minute -- but you'll save plenty of time if you reserve same-day tickets ahead of time through the National Park Service. (See our story on planning ahead for more tips on getting tickets in advance.) You'll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Washington, though you'll have to wait your turn to look out of the tiny windows.
Now that you've seen the city, it's time to check out another of the museums, or perhaps wander through one of the two outdoor sculpture gardens at the Hirshhorn or National Gallery. (The latter is a destination for all seasons, with live jazz in warmer months and ice skating in the winter.)
Time for dinner. If you have a favorite cuisine, check out Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema's annual dining guide and recent reviews. For something more traditional, we'll steer you towards the Old Ebbitt Grill, a sprawling, clubby restaurant near the White House and Treasury building that boasts friendly service and an excellent raw bar -- and is a favorite with Secret Service agents and other government employees.
Daytime isn't necessarily the best time to see the monuments at the western end of the Mall. The World War II Memorial, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Memorial, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Korean War Memorial, Jefferson Memorial and Lincoln Memorial are all open 24 hours a day, and are all much more dramatic in the dark. The FDR Memorial's rushing water and outdoor "rooms" especially lend itself to after-hours exploration. One note about safety: The Mall and the Tidal Basin aren't well lit at night, but all the memorials have nearby parking and park rangers on duty until 11:30 p.m.
Those who want to explore Washington's nightlife should head for the bar-heavy Adams Morgan neighborhood, where dozens of late-night spots surround the corner of 18th Street and Columbia Road. West African bars with live music, international lounges, dive bars, high-energy dance clubs, cool rooftop decks -- there's something for everyone.
For a more laidback scene, try one of the traditional grand hotel bars. The Round Robin Bar at the Willard, the Mayflower's Town and Country Lounge and the Hay-Adams's Off the Record are old-school hideaways with fantastic bartenders and strong martinis.
View all comments that have been posted about this article.
© 2008 Washingtonpost.Newsweek Interactive
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